Up and over the Andes (2007-2009)

If life is seen on a movie screen, then the Andes can only be seen on the IMAX. When you see a regular mountain, it rises above the plain with its peak cutting into the sky. But the Andes are different. If you hold your hand out in front of you fingers pointing straight up, and you look at the back of your hand in profile, that’s what the Andes look like. They rise into the clouds and you cannot see the tops.

 

Photos contributed by Su-Yin, Marije and Ana.


The Andes were created tectonically, but remain striking and jagged due to lack of weathering on the west side by a rain shadow (all the rain is on the eastern Amazon side, and they somehow manage to have some agriculture on these steep slopes). The Andes take up your entire view--you can't see the top, bottom nor the sides.

 


When you drive along the face, you dare not look down because you'd have to get over the edge to see the bottom.

 


On the way up to our first field site, we saw these by the side of the road.


Apparently, they are burial tombs designed to give the dead a nice view of the valley.

 


Cecile checks in to her 1 bedroom studio apartment.

 


They even have a jacuzzi.  I later found out that this was a pig sty.

 


The nearest town to our first site is Paucartambo.


Cecile and I are waaay happier than Katja and Viki.



Just after Paucartambo, on our first visit, we were stopped on the road by a derrumbe. This was not to be our last. The main road, which was unstable, collapsed onto the bottom road below.

 


The bulldozer that was clearing it out almost went off the cliff so we had to wait a few hours while they frantically dug it out.

 


We found beer to pass the time.

 


And watched the kids run around and play with their toys.

They finally cleared the derrumbe by nightfall, but the road wasn't suitable for passing. We decided to go for it anyway, which, in hindsight, was incredibly stupid. Our driver requested that we remain in the vehicle to weigh it down, rather than walk behind it across the derrumbe. As we crawled slowly in the darkness over the rubble, we hit the last remaining pile that had yet to be cleared. Our van tipped 30 degrees so that we could see the bottom of the Andes miles below us. Instinctively, we pressed against the opposite side of the van and we were able to (poder) make it across safely with our hearts racing.

 


In July 2008, we were stopped by something else. We passed through Paucartambo on the Dia de Carmen, which is the festival of the town’s patron saint.

 


I really wanted to buy one of these masks, sneak up on Luiz in the middle of the jungle and scare the living bajeezus out of him.

 


In July ’08 I brought my masters student Su-Yin.

 


Under the bridge downtown.

 


Another cool Paucartambo bridge.

 


We bought our spoons, which Su-Yin felt the need to take a picture of, and got out of there.


K-Clark and I take some met/GPS readings on the Cape Farewell ’09 trip.

 


On the Cape Farewell trip, we stopped to check out a house being built by the entire community, which is how they do it there. Matt the videographer and Jorge spent a long time there becoming immensely popular (especially after Matt gave the kids $20).

 


Exciting fire on the side of the road. Anthony slept through it though.

 


Deforestation and the Andes is a hot topic.