Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam (2006)

Vietnam is not for the light traveler.  The type of tourist you see around, when you do see tourists, are rough, tough, and carry with them a strong sense of awareness and street smarts.  There are no families with kids, young students or old folks.  The tourists are limited to their 20s, 30s and 40s and are characterized by adventuresome individuals and entrepreneurial businessmen.  Vietnam is a military state so anything goes with them and you have no say.  The military airport police took away a man for “issues regarding his visa” right in front of us, and his business partner half-heartedly joked that he would never see him again.  We were worried about our visas-on-arrival, and there was a bit of delay in the processing.  Fortunately, the processing went through, my stranded luggage was found, and we made it to our hotel without getting ripped off. 

 

We set out to explore the nearby Reunification Palace, but were stopped every other minute by people trying to sell us goods or services.  The streets were maddeningly overflowing with scooters and cars that honked continuously—the drivers literally honk their horn every few seconds to let people know they exist.  The Palace was just okay, and we skipped out on our tour to find some more action.  We found a cabby who wouldn’t rip us off, and got dropped of at the Cholon bus station, where we boarded a bus to Mytho along the Mekong Delta.  The bus ride was less than comfortable, though we did manage to get a couple naps in along the 2 hour ride.  The arrival in Mytho was a struggle—the faces of 25 guys on the edge of starvation lit up upon seeing our white faces in the bus.  The rushed us with a swarm of shouting and directions causing us to instinctively ignore everything and push our way through with negative determination to point B, which really was an arbitrary point away from the crowd.  We finally found refuge in a grocery store, where we caught our breath and strategized a game plan.  We ended up walking for an hour through a never-ending market, where Carmel was disturbed by the bloody slaughter of still-live animals and odd smells from drying frogs and other elements of protein, as I rationalized to maintain sanity.  We never made it to our destination, which was a poorly described Lonely Planet riverfront office.  Exhausted, we sat down alongside the street looking for a cab to take us back to the bus station.  A cab never came by so finally we broke down and hopped on the back of a scooter, where we took a precarious zig-zag jaunt to the bus station.  On the bus ride back, I endeared myself to some Vietnamese youths by singing with them in broken English Hotel California, Backstreet Boys (thank goodness for the youtube lip synch video), and I even did a bit of beatboxing for them. 

 

We eventually made it to another Lonely Planet recommendation for dinner, where we feasted on fresh spring rolls, lotus leaf salad, beef with flower stems, eggplant, tofu and vegetables, purple yam soup, Hanoi beer, watermelon juice and pineapple juice.  After dinner, we stumbled our way through a refreshingly posh and trendy neighborhood on our way to an even trendier club called Apocalypse Now.  I got a couple more different Vietnamese beers, danced to some decent club music, and crowd-watched.  Strangely enough, they were showing Tom & Jerry on the plasma screens, which reminded us of a strange scene at the airport whereby all of the security guards lined up in a perfectly symmetrical semi-circle to watch Tom & Jerry in between flights (remember, we were stuck in the airport a bit waiting for our visas).  Anyway, Carmel and I must have looked like a couple of happenin’ yuppies at the club, and we were given two $20 certificates to use at the biggest and most luxurious hotel in the area, the Calypso Hotel.  I blew my 20 in 5 minutes on video poker, but Carmel, for some reason, kept winning at the slots.  Right when she was about to go broke, she’d end up winning big and coming back up again.  Finally, we were getting tired so we decided to cash out at $15, but they wouldn’t let us cash out at less than $20 as they had given us $20 for free to start with.  So we said, fine, and she dumped her $15 back in the slots, hit the button, and went up $8.  We cashed out at $3 and popped back to our hotel for the night.

Reunification Palace.

 

Room with table and chairs.

 

Meeting area.

 

Book.

 

Red is SO his color.

 

When area code pride gets out of control.

 

Streets of HCMC.

 

This guy is giving these faces a lift.

 

Roadside market.

 

Motorbikes everywhere.

 

Home sweet home.

 

Riverside view.

 

Beef with flower stems, tofu and vegetables, eggplant and rice.

 

Purple yam soup.

 

On our way to Club Apocalypse Now.

 

Pineapple for sale.

 

Street food.

 

Mini hotel alley.

 

Carmel converted to Vietnamese.

 

They sell all sorts of stuff in Vietnam.