Moscow, Russia (2008)

After visiting St. Petersburg, we took the overnight train over to Moscow, where Carmel was to present a poster at a conference.  We arrived at 6am, then caught a cab to the flat of our Russian friend Anya, who was in Carmel’s lab at Oxford.  Anya told us how much the taxi should cost, and they tried to get double out of us.  We argued with them down to a reasonable rate, but then they said we couldn’t take the official cab, but instead we had to take some random guy’s private car, which is actually normal.  Anya was soon awakened by us at an unreasonably early hour, we chatted for a bit while doing some laundry, then we all fell asleep for a few hours.


We went out for a yummy lunch of traditional Russian food (Anya tried to take us to Pret a Manger, which Carmel was fine with, but I had to make an executive decision against it), then wandered through the Red Square and to St. Basil’s Cathedral. (Credit Kate for pano idea)

 


Anya and Carmel at the entrance to the Red Square.  The Red Square is so named not because of the red link to communism, but because red meant beautiful long before communism came around.  Even the Russian girls love to dye their hair bright red, and wear bright red lipstick and shoes. 

 


St. Basil’s Cathedral, the symbol of Russia.  Ivan the Terrible blinded the architect who built it so that the architect would never build anything more beautiful.  It was almost torn down by Stalin. 

 


We are the first people ever to take their photo in front of the cathedral.

 


Anya led us around the streets of Moscow for a while, and we eventually reached the hotel where the conference was at.  The conference hooked up its participants and their guests.  We received free registration and accommodation at the 5-star hotel (Carmel and I got an extra giant suite because we were not students).  The President of Azerbaijan rolled on through while we were in the lobby.  Even the Backstreet Boys had stayed there.  The conference gave us nice conference bags that contained 2GB memory sticks.  Normally, these kinds of science meetings in Russia receive very little funding, but Vladimir Putin’s wife is on the organizational committee.  In the evening we went to the plenary talk (Nobel laureate Dan Kahneman), followed up by a great cocktail party.  We went back to Anya’s flat for some vodka and to gather up our laundry and eventually made it back to the hotel for some well-deserved sleep.

 


The next morning we went to the fantastic buffet breakfast and headed to the nearby Tretyakov Gallery, which is the treasure trove of Russian art.  We popped back for a bit of lunch, and took a bit of a siesta/nap.  Carmel and I went to a conference talk in the afternoon, then met up with Anya and headed out on the town for the evening.  On every street were parked loads of shiny black BMW’s, Mercedes, and Range Rovers.  We went to a Georgian restaurant (Genatsvale) for dinner that was phenomenal. 

 


A bit of live Georgian music behind me.  Sounded nothing like Ray Charles’s Georgia On My Mind.

 


Scribbled on the bathroom wall: “Condi was here.”

 


The Georgian food was waaaayyy better than some other options.  (By the way, c’s are pronounced as s’s and p’s are pronounced as r’s).

 


Afterwards, we walked around some cool streets and neighborhoods for a couple of hours led by Anya the tour guide, then returned to the hotel for the night.

 


One of seven identical Stalinist buildings imposing on the city.

 


Another one not too far off.

 


Something, I have no idea what.

 


This is what was called an art garden.  Amazing what they can grow here.

 


This is the new traditional lock tree that newlyweds come to and attach their lock to it (symbolism?). There were brides/grooms all over Moscow and St. Petersburg taking photos.  You kind of knew you hit a tourist spot when there were a few brides in the vicinity.

 


Ugly ship statue thing dedicated to Peter the Great.  Moscow people hate it because P the G moved the capital of Russia away from Moscow to St. Petersburg.

 


The much prettier Christ Redeemer church nearby.

 


Another view.

 


Our third day in Moscow started off with a trip to the Kremlin, which actually proved a bit more difficult to enter than would be expected from its well-protected red brick walls.  There was some sort of massive security event going on there and all the entrances were closed off.  We walked around it a bit, but eventually gave up and took shelter from the light rain in the nearby metro station.  We walked inside the metro station for a bit, but eventually made a wrong turn.  We emerged from the station behind the security lines and inside the Kremlin entrance area.  There were only a few tourists gathered about—not the usual hours of lines that are generally there on a Sunday afternoon.  Cautiously, we decided to see how far we could actually get with going in the Kremlin, and sure enough we were able to purchase tickets and wander around the grounds inside on an unusually quiet and peaceful day. 

 


Entrance to the Kremlin.

 


One of a cluster of many cathedrals in the square.  How does one choose which one to go to?  Certainly not location as they are all 20 seconds from one another.  Not the comfort of the chairs either—apparently everyone must stand in Russian Orthodox churches.  This particular cathedral had my favorite cathedral name ever: Cathedral of the Assumption.  Carmel’s favorite named one was right next door (Church of the Deposition of the Robe). 

 


Next, we went to the Pushkin Museum, which was one of the best museums we visited and contained a high density of works by famous artists. 

 


More from Kandinsky.

 


We returned to the hotel for Carmel’s poster session. 

 


Afterwards, we walked into the city center with Anya for dinner at an Uzbekhi restaurant, which, like the Georgian restaurant, was fantastic. 

 


We spent the rest of the evening exploring the metro, which is a tourist destination in its own right (there were tour groups at a lot of the metro stops) due to their intricate designs. 

 


Supposedly, there is a whole second secret metro paralleling the one that normal people use. 

 


Anya’s parents called and offered to pick us up and drive us around the city, so we took them up on that offer.  We zoomed around quickly to all the places that had taken us all day to walk around, until finally they took us back to our hotel where we fell asleep, exhausted.

 


The GUM shopping center.

 


Walls of a convent across the pond.

 


For our last day in Moscow, we realized that we pretty much did everything that we had on our list for Moscow.  It was a nice day so we decided to head back to St. Basil’s and the Red Square in search of a mini-St. Basil to add to my collection of cheesy mini-monuments. 

 


We returned to the hotel for lunch, found Anya, and headed out to the convent for the afternoon.

 


Mini-convent.

 


In the evening, Carmel and I went to the ballet (ballet originated in Russia), Giselle, at the Stanislovsky Theater.  After 1 hour, the main girl died, the curtain closed, and everyone applauded as the dancers came out to bow.  Carmel and I looked at each other and said, “That’s it?”  We soon realized it was just intermission, but we had no idea what they would do for a whole other half. 

 


After intermission, the second half started, and we saw a trippy dream world thing where she came back as an angel and danced around with a couple dudes who were into her (or so we thought, you can check out the actual plot on Wikipedia).

 


We caught a late dinner at Uncle Vanya’s, which served authentic Russian food.  Anya met up with us afterwards and went out for drinks and dessert.  I got a cherry vodka to start, which was kind of gross and tasted like cough syrup.  Anya picked the second one, which is perhaps the worst thing I’ve ever had in my entire life.  It was horse-radish vodka.  It was a struggle to get down, but I eventually did and Carmel and I went back to the hotel for the night.